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Navy Pride on Pennsylvania Avenue: The United States Navy Memorial

October 4, 2025Posted in UncategorizedTagged Navy, Navy Log, Navy Memorial, Navy Memorial DC, Penn Quarter, Pennsylvania Ave, Pennsylvania Avenue, The Lone Sailor, travel, travel-tips, US Navy, US Navy Memorial, usa, Washington, Washington DC, Washington DC monuments, Washington DC Tourism, Washington DC travelLeave a comment

In a large open plaza stands a statue of a solitary figure.

He is a sailor in a dress unform. He stands straight and tall wearing a service “dixie cup” sailor hat. A buttoned up peacoat with a flipped up collar protects him from the chill of the ocean air. His hands are plunged deep into his pockets. His packed sea bag stands by his side. The determined look on his face denotes his readiness to deploy anywhere and perform his duty.

The statue is known as The Lone Sailor and serves as the centerpiece of the US Navy Memorial.

The Lone Sailor Statue

For centuries, considerable discussion was had regarding a suitable monument paying tribute to the United States Navy. Pierre L’Enfant had included a Memorial Column for the Navy in his original plans for Washington, DC. Other memorials were built to honor the Navy during specific conflicts, but nothing existed to honor all American sailors.

This all began to change in the spring of 1977 as Admiral Arleigh Burke urged Navy senior leaders and veterans to get serious by proclaiming: “We have talked long enough about a Navy Memorial, and it’s time we did something about it.”

When Admiral Burke–a distinguished World War II war hero and three-time Chief of Naval Operations–spoke, Navy personnel listened. The Navy Memorial Foundation was quickly organized and Rear Admiral William Thompson was named its first president. Admiral Thompson proved an excellent choice for the job and quickly set to work.

Rear Admiral William Thompson (ret.), on left, receiving a donation for the US Navy Memorial. Note the artist’s rendition of the Memorial.

-Department of Defense Photo

He first helped shape the enabling legislation Congress would pass in 1980. He then led the foundation through selecting the memorial’s designers, determining the memorial’s location, raising money and overseeing construction.

Admiral Thompson also helped select the sculptor Stanley Bleifeld to design and sculpt The Lone Sailor Statue. In recognition of Admiral Thompson’s significant contributions to building the memorial, Bleifield included Thompson’s initials on the Lone Sailor’s sea bag.

The Navy Memorial Plaza looking south toward the National Archives

The whole process from the founding of the memorial to its completion stretched to almost a decade. The Navy Memorial was formally dedicated on October 13, 1987 by President Ronald Reagan. He devoted it to all who have served, are serving or will serve in the United States Navy, Marine Corps, Coast Guard and Merchant Marine.

The memorial is set within a broad circular plaza to the northwest of the intersection between 7th Street and Pennsylvania Avenue. Early designs for the memorial favored a more traditional approach, but they were discarded in favor of a memorial with a more open space resembling a seascape.

The floor or base of the plaza depicts a large world map. With a diameter of 100 feet, it is said to be the largest map in the world.

A set of fountains at the US Navy Memorial

Fountains skirt the southern perimeter of the map. The water flowing through the fountains comes not from Washington DC’s water supply but is collected from the world’s oceans and the Great Lakes.

A semicircular wall inside the fountains contains a series of 26 bas-relief figures depicting scenes of Navy history and Navy life as well as the contributions of maritime partners.

Arrayed around the memorial are quotes about the Navy from sailors at all levels. Six masts fly the flags of the United States, the Navy, Marine Corps, Coast Guard, Merchant Marine and the POW/MIA flag.

Bas Relief sculpture of Navy submarines in World War II

Sweeping arches incorporated into the design of two mixed-use commerical buildings suggest a northern perimiter to the memorial, balancing the fountains and sculpture walls on the southern side. The neoclassical design of these buildings seemingly provides a sense of the shore or anchorage to the airy, open plaza.

Amidst all this stands The Lone Sailor. The statue has been so enthusiastically received by the Navy community, there are 18 more Lone Sailor statues across the United States (and one at Utah Beach in Normandy). In each location, the statue reminds the community of the dedication and professionalism of the American sailor.

Bas Relief Sculpture of Captain John Paul Jones

Early in the design phase, the Navy identified a desire to have a “living memorial,” a place where people would gather and return to time and again. The open space makes the memorial a popular venue for summer concerts, reenlistments, promotion ceremonies, wreath layings and reunions.

In keeping with the desire for a living memorial, the Navy Memorial Foundation located a visitor center in one of the adjoining buildings. Part research facility, part musuem and part community center, the visitor center brings the Navy experience alive for the landlubber while instilling pride in all Navy sailors. There are exhibits on the missions of the post 9/11 Navy, multiple Navy leaders, and the important role played by chief petty officers.

The visitor center also houses the Arleigh Burke Theater. In addition to running several short movies on Navy life throughout the day, as well as periodic feature films, the theater hosts guest speaker programs. Visitors can find a variety of mementos from all the US military services at the Ship’s Store gift shop.

A video screen displays the Navy Log throughout the day.

There is also a feature known as the Navy Log, an online archive with details of the men and women who have served in all the sea services. There are currently over 750,000 entries. Active members, veterans or their loved ones are invited to add to this number and enter a service member’s information as an ongong tribute to their time in uniform.

As the US Navy observes its 250th Anniversary, the US Navy Memorial is a place for everyone to discover and honor America’s rich naval heritage. Whether you are active, retired, reserve or the relative or friend of someone who has served, the Navy Memorial is an important and worthwhile destination for any visit to Washington, DC.

***

I can imagine no more rewarding a career. And any man who may be asked in this century what he did to make his life worthwhile, I think can respond with a good deal of pride and satisfaction: ‘I served in the United States Navy.’
President John F. Kennedy

Route Recon

The US Navy Memorial is located at 701 Pennsylvania Ave, NW Washington, DC 20004.

The Memorial is accessible 24 hours a day.

The Visitor Center is open seven days a week from 9:30 AM to 5:00 PM.

The Navy Memorial hosts numerous events throughout the year. Some events may close the Visitor Center to the public. Be sure to check the Memorial’s website and find additional information about upconing events on the calendar.

The closest Metro Station is Archives-Navy Memorial-Penn Quarter on the Green and Yellow Lines.

Parking:
Validated parking is available at PMI Garage, 875 D Street, NW.
Parking can be validated for $13 inside the Ship’s Store, located in the Navy Memorial Visitor Center.

Logan’s Legacy

May 31, 2025Posted in Civil WarTagged Blackjack Logan, decoration-day, GAR, Grand Army of the Republic, John A Logan, John Alexander Logan, John Logan, John Logan house, Logan Circle, Logan Circle Park, Memorial Day, memorial-day, Washington DC, Washington DC travelLeave a comment

The heavily mustachioed bronze visage of Major General John Alexander Logan gazes down upon his namesake park and traffic circle in Northwest Washington, DC.

Logan Circle sits at the confluence of four busy thoroughfares. Enclosed within the circle is a popular and well-tended 1.8 acre park with ample benches shaded by oak trees and dotted by interpretive signage.

These landmarks ensure Logan’s name is familiar to many Washington-area residents. Unfortunately, few may know his story, which is replete with service to our country.

Photograph of John A. Logan, circa 1880.

John Alexander Logan, circa 1880

-Dewitt C. Pratt, Photographer; Photo Courtesy of the Library of Congress

During the Civil War, Logan was considered a “political general”. He began his political career as a Democrat in the Illinois legislature, aligning himself closely with the state’s leading political figure at the time, Stephen Douglas. Representing a district in southern Illinois, he strongly supported the enactment and enforcement of fugitive slave laws.

In 1858, he was elected to the US House of Representatives. After the firing on Fort Sumter and the succession of several Southern states, however, Logan used his tremendous oratorical skills both in Congress and in communities across his home region to promote the importance of a strong Union.

In June of 1861, while still a member of Congress, Logan attached himself as a civilian volunteer with a Michigan regiment and saw combat at the First Battle of Bull Run. In the aftermath of the battle, he eluded rebel fire while retrieving and caring for the wounded. Now determined to fight for a Union victory, he returned to his district in Illinois, raised a volunteer regiment and was appointed its colonel.

John Logan's equistrian statue in Logan Circle Park in Washington, DC. — **Statue of John A. Logan in Logan Circle Park**

Unlike many of his contemporary politicans who donned military uniforms, Logan distinguished himself on the battlefield as a troop commander and tactical leader. He led his troops to victories in multiple battles, including Fort Donelson, Vicksburg, and Atlanta, and was seriously wounded on several occasions. He rose to the rank of Major General of Volunteers and briefly commanded the Union Army of the Tennessee.

Logan inspired tremendous loyalty and dedication in his soldiers. His colleague General Mortimer Leggett said of Logan: He … seemed to have the power to call out of the men every particle of fight that was in them.

After the war, Logan returned to Congress. Switching parties, he was elected to three more terms in the House of Representatives and three terms in the Senate, representing Illinois as a Republican. His views on race seemed to switch as well. During this period, he was a strident advocate for African American rights and urged passage of the 14th and 15th Amendments.

Bas-relief sculpture of John Logan’s swearing in as a United States Senator from his statue in Logan Circle Park

He was also an early supporter of women’s suffrage, backed public education for all, and worked tirelessly to secure greater pensions and other benefits for veterans.

Logan was considered by many Republicans as a potential presidential candidate. In 1884, he unsuccessfully ran for Vice President on the Republican ticket headed by James G. Blaine of Maine, losing to Grover Cleveland and Thomas Hendricks.

His veterans advocacy led to his selection as the National Commander of the Grand Army of the Republic (GAR), the powerful Union veterans’ organization. It is here that Logan left his best known mark on American culture. In 1868, Logan directed GAR posts nationwide to decorate the graves of Union war veterans on May 30 when an abudance of flowers would be in bloom.

Bas-relief sculpture of John Logan conferring with fellow officers from his statue in Logan Circle Park

While decorating the graves of Civil War soliders was already occurring in both the North and the South, Logan’s order to the GAR expanded the practice nationwide and set a definitive date for its observance.

In his order, Logan stressed the importance of veterans adopting and continuing this practice as he wrote: If other eyes grow dull and other hands slack, and other hearts cold in the solemn trust, ours shall keep it well as long as the light and warmth of life remains in us.

GAR Posts readily adopted the order and organized community observances, which continued to grow in size and scope. In 1938, Congress designated Decoration Day as a national holiday on May 30. After World War II, the term Memorial slowly replaced Decoration in the name for the day. In 1967, Congress officially changed the name of the holiday to Memorial Day. Four years later, Congress adjusted the date of Memorial Day to the last Monday in May.

Bas-relief sculpture of Peace from John Logan’s statue in Logan Circle Park

After Logan’s death in 1886, the Society of the Army of the Tennessee led the effort to commemorate his service to the country as both soldier and statesman. Sculptor Franklin Simmons, who designed the Peace Memorial, was selected to craft a bronze equestrian statue. Logan’s figure appears atop the 25-foot-high bronze statue with bronze bas-relief panels on each side. Facing north and south are figures representing War and Peace, respectively.

Along the eastern and western sides of the base are events from Logan’s life. Facing east is a portrayal of Logan conferring with fellow officers, while Logan’s swearing in as a US senator looks toward the west. Initially, these two images caused a minor uproar as the public realized they were factually inaccurate until Logan’s widow, Mary, explained these depictions were intended to be more illustrative rather than representing distinct historical events.

The statue was dedicated in a grand ceremony led by President William McKinley in 1901. A large circular park known as Iowa Circle was selected as the location of the statue as Logan and his family had lived nearby. The area was emerging in the 1880’s as a fashionable middle-class neighborhood. Congress officially changed the name to Logan Circle in 1930. While the late 20th century was a difficult time for the neighborhood, today Logan Circle is known as a trendy, gentrified area with popular restaurants, theaters and many rehabilitated historic properties.

John Logan’s post-war home at 4 Logan Circle NW in Washington, DC

Washington, DC is not alone in naming landmarks after John Logan. Across the country, there are counties, schools, plazas, a junior college, a former military post and even a national cemetery all named for John Logan.

While he might be best remembered for his contribution to creating Memorial Day, his real legacy is one of leadership and service to our country. Whether on the battlefield, in the halls of Congress, or across Illinois, John Logan was a dedicated public servent who fought hard for a stronger country and better society.

Route Recon

Logan Circle is located at the intersection of 13th Street, P Street, Rhode Island Avenue and Vermont Avenue in Northwest Washington.

The nearest Metro Station is Mount Vernon Square/Convention Center on the Green and Yellow Lines. It is a 15-minute walk from the station to Logan Circle.

There is street parking in the area.

Military History on the Mall

May 22, 2025Posted in UncategorizedTagged American HIstory Museum, Civil War, history, Korean War, military history, museums, National Mall, National Musuem of American History, Revolutionary War, Smithsonian Institute, The Price of Freedom, travel, Viet Nam War, Washington DC, Washington DC travel, World War IILeave a comment

For the past 250 years, Americans have consistently answered the call to war.

To answer that call, they often left behind civilian lives, families, and communities. Wars are never fought in a vacuum. With each conflict, there are corresponding impacts on American life and society.

On Veterans Day, 2004, the Smithsonian Institute’s National Musuem of American History, located on the National Mall, opened an ambitious military history exhibit to explore not just battles and campaigns, but rather the many ways wars have physically, culturally and economically shaped America throughout its history.

A French four pounder field cannon, a gift to the Americans from the Marquis de Lafayette

Entitled The Price of Freedom, Americans at War, the exhibit was designed to be extensive, occuping over 18,000 square feet and examining 16 conflicts in nine different galleries. Visitors follow a maze-like path through these chronologically arranged galleries, from the French and Indian War through Iraq and Afghanistan.

In designing The Price of Freedom, curators stayed away from displays comprised largely of weapons and uniforms (although there are still plenty of those). Rather, they identified over 800 unique artifacts from the Smithsonian’s extensive collection. Some of the more notable items on display include George Washington’s sword and scabbard, the chairs used by Ulysses S. Grant and Robert E. Lee at Appomattox and a Willys Jeep from World War II.

A melt resistant chocolate bar developed by the Hershey Company and provided to US servicemembers in the Pacific Theater during World War II

However, head curator David Allison sought a symmetry in the selection of the artifacts. He wanted to display noteworthy items along with more common articles reflecting the service members and their times, such as rations, books and playing cards.

In addition to the artifacts, exhibit designers use photographs, contemporary illustrations, videos, interactive stations, and other features to help interpret the wartime experience and immerse the musuem visitor in the time.

The most unique display is in the Vietnam War gallery where 16 different 1960’s-era television sets show contemporary footage and commentary depicting how Americans experienced the Vietnam War at home. The viewing area for the televisions is reminiscent of a mid-century living room, complete with a blocky couch and chair covered in thick clear plastic as your grandmother or aunt might have had.

The Revolutionary War, Civil War, World War II and Vietnam War galleries are the largest. These spaces immerse you in the story of the war and how it impacted soldier and civilian alike.

The Wars of Expansion Gallery is smaller, but provides important context and accounts for a series of 19th century conflicts, such as the Battle of Little Bighorn and the Spanish-American War, which may be less familiar to many visitors.

The mix of artifacts and displays broadens the appeal of The Price of Freedom to a wider audience. Those with less interest in military subject matter should still enjoy viewing some of the more unique items while serious students of history are sure to come away having learned something new.

General George Custer’s buckskin coat

While in most cases The Price of Freedom achieves its aims, there are a few shortcomings.

Unfortunately, the exhibit space for World War I is too limited. The display misses or minimizes some important themes, such as the rapid expansion of the Army, the mobilization of the American economy, the changing role of women in the military, and the emergence of the United States as a world power.

The Gulf War display is similarly small, seemingly limited to uniforms worn by Colin Powell and Norman Schwarzkopf.

There is also an unfinished feel to the exhibition space for the wars in Iraq and Afghanistan. This is understandable as the original exhibit opened in 2004 before those conflicts ended. However, there is space for a more complete examination of both those conflicts than is currently provided.

Chairs used by Grant and Lee at Appomattox.

The chairs used by Ulysses S. Grant and Robert E. Lee at Appomattox.

At the conclusion of The Price of Freedom is a short film with veterans reflecting on their motivations and sacrifices of their service in the American military. The film concludes with scenes from U.S. military cemeteries showing orderly tombstones and listing the number of interments.

There are also recurring references to casualites throughout the galleries in keeping with the intent of the exhibit principal funder, Kenneth Behring. He desired the exhibit specifically to recognize the ultimate sacrifices made by American men and women who died in wartime.

Even with a few flaws, two decades after its opening, the Price of Freedom remains true to its original mission. As America prepares to celebrate its 250th anniverary, this important exhibit gives visitors a thorough synopsis of America’s military heritage and its significant influence on our national character.

Washington's sword and scabbard — **George Washington’s sword and scabbard from the American Revolution**

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Route Recon

The Smithsonian National Museum of American History is located at 1300 Constitution Avenue N.W., Washington, D.C. 20560

The nearest Washington DC Metro Stations are Federal Triangle and Smithsonian. Both stations are on the Metro Blue, Orange and Silver lines.

There is no public parking facility for the Smithsonian museums on the National Mall. A limited number of city-operated metered parking spaces along adjoining streets are available.

The Musuem is open daily (except Christmas Day) from 10:00 AM to 5:30 PM.

Consult the Musuem’s website for more information about other exhibits.

Please note: The Price of Freedom, Americans at War exhibit includes some graphic images of war and casualties.

A guide to the exhibit is available here.

The National Native American Veterans Memorial, A Welcoming Place

April 13, 2025Posted in UncategorizedTagged Code Talkers, Harvey Pratt, military history, National Mall, National Museum of the American Indian, National Native American Veterans Memorial, travel, Washington, Washington DC, Washington DC travelLeave a comment

In 1942, the US Marine Corps recruited Chester Nez, and twenty-eight fellow members of the Navajo tribe for a special mission. After basic training, they were sent to Camp Elliot, California where they developed a cipher code for transmitting radio messages based on the Navajo language. Each member committed the straightforward code to memory.

With the code complete, the platoon members then deployed to units in the Pacific Theater. Nez was assigned to the 1st Marine Division on Guadalcanal. His first encoded transmission led to an artillery strike which destroyed an enemy machine gun nest.

Nez would later see combat at Bougainville, Guam and Peleliu, all the while relaying messages in a radio code the Japanese could never crack. For their contributions in developing such an unbreakable code, as well as their bravery in the field, Chester Nez and his twenty-eight fellow Marines were awarded the Congressional Gold Medal in 2001.

A stone wall with the seals of five of the armed forces marks the entryway to the National Native American Veterans Memorial. — **Native Americans have served in all branches of the American military throughout our history.**

The code talkers, as these men were known, are today one of the better known examples of Native Americans serving in the American military. However, Native Americans, Alaskans and Hawaiians have long served in the Armed Forces, from Valley Forge through Iwo Jima to Iraq and Afghanistan. Today there are approximately 140,000 veterans of Native heritage.

In 2013, Congress amended legislation to direct the National Museum of the American Indian to build a memorial so all Americans can learn “of the proud and courageous tradition of service of Native Americans”.

As part of a nationwide competition, a design committee selected a proposal entitled Warrior’s Circle of Honor submitted by Harvey Pratt, a self-taught artist and Marine veteran from Oklahoma and a member of the Cheyenne and Arapahoe Tribes. As the name suggests, the circle is the prominent shape of the memorial’s features.

The focus of the memorial is a vertically oriented stainless-steel circle, situated on a carved stone drum surrounded by circular seating area and gathering space.

The circle is relevant in many Native American cultures. It represents the cycle of life, as well as the four seasons, the sun, the moon and the orbits of the planets and stars. Native communities also gather in circles for ceremonies, festivals and storytelling.

The memorial design is about more than the circle of course. Pratt also sought to create a space for servicemen and women, veterans and their families to heal by combining the elements of water, wind, and earth into the memorial’s design.

Water glistens as it flows over the carved stone drum at the National Nafive American Veterans Memorial.

Flowing water glistens atop the carved stone drum at the National Native American Veterans Memorial

Water pulses across the surface of the stone drum and flows down its side creating a central fountain. The stone work around the drum contains a visual echo of the water, with concentric rings in the stone walkways around the drum. The depiction represents the beating of the drum, hearkening all to gather in the space.

Around the seating area are four spears pointed skyward. The spears hold prayer cloths visitors have tied to the base of the spears allowing the wind to carry the intentions of the prayer cloths to the heavens.

Finally, a park-like setting is built around the memorial combining hardwood trees and a wetland pond. The setting is intended to provide privacy for visitors while a soundtrack of Native American veterans songs aids in reflection.

Two spears, pointed toward the heavens with prayer cloths tied to their bases.

The memorial is located to the east of the main entrance plaza of the National Museum of the American Indian. A large stone marker with the emblems of the five branches of the Armed Forces marks the way.

Within the museum, an exhibit entitled Why We Serve provides background, rationale and compelling examples through history of the military service of Native Americans, Alaskan Natives and Native Hawaiians to the United States. The exhibit is also available online.

The memorial is above all a welcoming place. Welcoming to Native Americans and their families to heal and reflect. Welcoming to other visitors as well to learn, to rest and also to consider the meaning of service to country and community.

**A white ribbon prayer cloth tied to the base of a spear.**

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Route Recon

The National Museum of the American Indian is located on the south side of the National Mall at the intersection of Fourth Street & Independence Avenue, SW Washington, DC 20560. The main entrance faces east toward the US Capitol Building.

The nearest Metro stations are L’Enfant Plaza and Federal Center SW.

The museum does not have parking. There is limited metered public parking on the surrounding streets. There are also several commercial parking garages nearby the museum.

The National Native American Veterans Memorial is accessible 24 hours a day.

Learn more about Chester Nez and his fellow Navajo Code Talkers from the Veterans History Project of the Library of Congress.

Mess Call

The Mitsitam Cafe, located within the National Museum of the American Indian offers a very broad menu of entrees, sandwiches and desserts reflecting Native American cuisines from across the country, such as grilled salmon, bison burgers and lobster roll. The cafe offers some of the tastiest food to be found on the National Mall.

Command Reading

Why We Serve by Alexandra N. Harris and Mark G. Hirsh. Why We Serve was published by the National Museum of the American Indian to commemorate the opening of the National Native American Veterans Memorial in 2020. The book explores the complex history of Native Americans serving in the US military with intriguing photographs, maps and artwork combined with compelling first person accounts.

Hancock, the Superb

February 14, 2025Posted in Civil WarTagged Archives-Navy Memorial, Civil War, gettysburg, history, Lewis Armistead, military, military history, Penn Quarter, travel, Washington DC, Washington DC travel, Winfield Scott HancockLeave a comment

Statues of military leaders on horseback are a common site in plazas and squares around Washington, DC. While the statues might seem ordinary, the men featured on them are usually not. This is certainly the case with the statue of General Winfield Scott Hancock in the Penn Quarter neighborhood near the Navy Memorial.

It is hard to imagine a military career today as the one experienced by this 19th century Army leader.

As the Union Army was quickly expanding to meet the grim realities of the Civil War, Major General George McClellan, Commander of the Army of the Potomac, promoted his long-time acquaintance Hancock from captain to brigadier general and assigned him to brigade command.

Hancock would go onto distinguish himself during the war, earning the nickname “Hancock the Superb”. He ultimately served 42 years on active duty and 25 years as a general officer.

The equestrian statue of Winfield Scott Hancock. — **The statue of General Winfield Scott Hancock**

In 1896, the equestrian statue was dedicated to Hancock portraying the famous general in his more senior years. But the simple monument does not tell the full story of this highly respected Union Army general.

Hancock hailed from Montgomeryville, Pennsylvania. He was the son of a lawyer in a locally prominent Democratic family. His parents named him after Winfield Scott, the Army’s most senior officer at the time. His name was apt. From an early age, the young Winfield demonstrated a keen interest in military affairs. He could often be found leading young boys in a “youth militia company” on marches through town.

At the age of 16, he was accepted at West Point, graduating in 1844.

Assignments followed in the west and in Mexico during the Mexican-American War. After the war, Hancock often received Quartermaster assignments which taught him important lessons in logistics, organization and how to navigate the Army’s bureaucracy. His affable nature, technical proficiency and dashing good looks earned him an excellent reputation among his soldiers, colleagues and superiors.

A photograph of General Winfield Scott Hancock taken sometime between 1861-1865 by Brady’s National Photographic Portrait Galleries

-Library of Congress

Militarily, Hancock is probably best remembered for his actions as a corps commander in the Union Army of the Potomac at the Battle of Gettysburg in 1863. In the prelude to the fighting, Hancock arranged Union troops in a broad defensive position along high ground south of the town. Once the fighting began in earnest, Hancock led from the front, quickly maneuvering his troops to reinforce positions along the Union line. On the third day of the battle, Hancock was severely wounded in the thigh during Confederate General George Pickett’s famous charge against the Union center.

Hancock would not leave the field until rebel troops had been repulsed. He would take five months to convalesce and would never completely heal from the wound.

Early in his career, Hancock became very good friends with a North Carolina-born officer named Lewis Armistead. However, in 1861, while both were stationed in California, they said their good-byes and headed east, destined to fight on different sides. The two faced each other on the final day of Gettysburg when Armistead led a brigade as part of Pickett’s Charge against troops commanded by Hancock. Armistead was fatally wounded during the battle and died two days later.

A photograph of Lewis Armistead, taken between 1861 and 1865, by an unknown photographer.

Both Hancock and Armistead are portrayed in Michael Shaara’s historical novel The Killer Angels and his son Jeffrey Shaara’s similar novels The Last Full Measure and Gods and Generals, as well as the films Gettysburg (1993) and Gods and Generals (2003).

There is scant historical evidence to support some of the depictions and dialog of the friendship between Armistead and Hancock portrayed in the novels and films. However, Captain John Bingham, an officer on Hancock’s staff, spoke with Armistead before he died. He would later write to Hancock with Armistead’s parting words to him: “Tell General Hancock for me that I have done him and done you all an injury, which I shall regret the longest day I live.”

In July of 1865, it was Hancock who supervised the execution of several of John Wilkes Booth’s conspirators in the assassination of President Lincoln. He would later be assigned as military governor of Louisiana and Texas during Reconstruction. His Democratic leanings, including his endorsement of the quick return of civil authorities, put him at odds with Republicans in Washington and with his former commander (and later President) Ulysses S. Grant.

A commemorative handkerchief featuring the images of Democratic Presidential candidate Winfield Scott Hancock and Vice Presidential candidate William English

-Library of Congress

While remaining in the Army, Hancock tested politics several times. After two attempts, he secured the Democratic nomination for president in 1880, but lost to a Republican (and former Union General) James Garfield.

Hancock died at age 61 in 1886 from an infection and complications of diabetes while serving as Commander of the US Army’s Department of the Atlantic. His death surprised the country as the condition of his health was unknown to most everyone.

$2 Silver Certificate with portrait of Winfield Scott Hancock. — **Following his death, Hancock was placed on the $2 Silver Certificate bill**

Tributes to Hancock poured in from military, civic and political leaders from across the country. Perhaps the most stirring came from a political rival and former president, Rutherford B. Hayes:

“If, when we make up our estimate of a public man, conspicuous, as a soldier and in civil life, we are to think first and chiefly of his manhood, his integrity, his purity, his singleness of purpose, and his unselfish devotion, we can say truthfully of Hancock that he was through and through pure gold.”

Hancock’s statue is made of bronze, not gold, but he was the gold standard of an officer and a gentlemen.

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Route Recon

The Statue of Winfield Scott Hancock is located just south of the Archives-Navy Memorial-Penn Quarter Metro Station.

Command Reading

Armistead and Hancock: Behind the Gettysburg Legend of Two Friends at the Turning Point of the Civil War by Tom McMillan. This dual biography of two leading Civil War generals provides new scholarship and analysis of their lives and careers and specifically details their friendship from its earliest days up to the Battle of Gettysburg.

The Grand Army of the Republic: the Legacy Lingers

January 19, 2025January 19, 2025Posted in Civil WarTagged Benjamin Stephenson, Civil War, Grand Army of the Republic, Grand Army of the Republic Memorial, Grand Army of the Republic Washington DC, history, military, military history, Penn Quarter, Washington DC, Washington DC travelLeave a comment

The latter half of the 18th century saw a heyday for fraternal organizations in the United States. These associations provided their largely male memberships with opportunities to share common cultural, occupational, and religious backgrounds while often hosting social and recreational events for members and their families.

One of the most prominent and powerful of these organizations was known as the Grand Army of the Republic (GAR). Membership in the GAR was open to all honorably discharged personnel, both officers or enlisted, from the Union Army, Navy, Marine Corps and Revenue Cutter Service (forerunner of the Coast Guard) who served during the Civil War.

The GAR was founded in 1866 by Dr. Benjamin Stephenson who served as a surgeon with the 14th Illinois Volunteer Infantry Regiment. After the war he established a medical practice in Springfield, Illinois. Working with several veteran colleagues, he helped organize the first GAR post in nearby Decatur.

The Grand Army of the Republic memorial in Washington, DC — **A Union soldier and sailor represent Fraternity on the Grand Army of the Republic memorial at Indiana Plaza**.

The GAR Memorial

One of the GAR’s principal activities was building and dedicating monuments to the sacrifices of Union forces and to the work of the GAR itself. As Union veterans aged, the GAR stepped up their efforts to build such memorials. In Washington DC, a GAR monument is located in Indiana Plaza in Washington’s Penn Quarter neighborhood. Several historic buildings frame the plaza and the Archives-Navy Memorial-Penn Quarter Metro Station brings consistent foot traffic to this busy area.

The GAR Memorial, also known as the Benjamin Stephenson Memorial, is triangularly shaped to reflect the GAR’s motto of Fraternity, Charity and Loyalty. Each side of the 25-foot high sand colored granite block has a bronze sculpture, featuring a weathered green patina.

The southern facing side reflects Fraternity with a sculpture of a Union soldier and sailor standing side by side. Below the sculpture is an oval image of Dr. Stephenson in his Army uniform, also rendered in bronze, surrounded by a laurel wreath carved into the granite.

A statue of a woman with a sword and a shield represents Loyalty on the Grand Army of the Republic Memorial.

Charity is portrayed on the northwest side by a woman wearing a robe and protecting a young child. Unfortunately, a thick coat of urban grime makes viewing this statue more difficult. Finally, Loyalty is represented on the northeast side by a statue of a woman bearing a sword and holding a shield.

The monument was dedicated on July 2, 1909 in a ceremony attended by President William Howard Taft and hundreds of aging Civil War veterans. The GAR Members in the crowd that day may not have realized it, but they were part of one of America’s earliest and most powerful single-issue advocacy societies.

The Legacy of the GAR

When Dr. Stephens founded the GAR, the original focus was to raise money and organize relief efforts for wounded veterans, as well as surviving widows and children. But in short order the GAR would move to lobbying State and Federal officials for expanded pensions for Union veterans, hiring preferences for government jobs, and the building of veterans homes and hospitals. Membership soared, reaching its peak in 1890, when the GAR boasted more than 400,000 members.

A woman and small child represent Charity on the Grand Army of the Republic Memorial.

The statue depicting charity on the Grand Army of the Republic Memorial in Washington, DC.

The GAR grew politically prominent and was especially influential within the Republican Party. In the second half of the 19th century, five Republican GAR members were elected to the presidency. Many more GAR members were elected to Congress, governorships and state legislatures.

One reason the GAR was so politically effective was its formal structure of organized components across the country. State level units were known as departments and local bodies were known as posts. Every state had a department and posts were found in communities nationwide. GAR posts were also found in US territories and international locations.

The national headquarters, state departments and local posts operated under a common set of by-laws and had an established chain-of-command. Each year from 1868 through 1949, the GAR organized national reunions known as encampments. These encampments were so well attended they grew larger than the political conventions of the day. Encampments were moved from state to state and localities welcomed the gatherings for the positive economic impact they provided.

The bronze relieve figure of Dr. Benjamin Stephenson, founder of the Grand Army of the Republic.

The bronze relief of Dr. Benjamin Stephenson, founder of the Grand Army of the Republic.

Locally, posts raised money, built memorials, organized commemorations and ceremonially buried deceased veterans. They also assumed important civic functions not always tied to veterans, directing fundraising to local causes, organizing the broader community to address local issues, and sponsoring recreational events open to all. The GAR’s organizational model and many of its practices were later adopted by the Veterans of Foreign Wars (founded in 1899) and the American Legion (founded in 1919) and are still in use today.

At at time when membership in fraternal organizations was often limited by race, GAR membership was open to all veterans, including the African Americans who fought as U.S. Colored Troops or had enlisted in the other services.

Membership in the GAR was exclusive to veterans and therefore only open to men. However, there were at least three female members: Kady Bromwell, who served along with her husband in two different Rhode Island Infantry Regiments; Sarah Edmond, who disguised herself as a man and fought with the 2nd Michigan Infantry Regiment; and Dr. Mary Edward Walker who served as a Union Army surgeon.

The GAR formally disbanded in 1956 upon the death of its last member, Albert Woolson. Woolson, whose father had died of his combat wounds, enlisted in the 1st Minnesota Heavy Artillery Company as a drummer boy in 1864. He was about 14 years old the time. After his death, Life magazine ran a seven page story about his life.

While the GAR has been gone for over seventy years, its legacy remains. Many patriotic acts we practice today, such as placing flags on veterans graves, observing Memorial Day each May, standing for the National Anthem and saluting the flag all originated with the GAR.

While the GAR may only be seen today through its monuments, its boot steps still echo through our stadiums, cemeteries, Legion posts and veterans homes.

* * *

Route Recon

The memorial is located at Indiana Plaza in the Penn Quarter neighborhood. The small public plaza, located across the street from the Archives-Navy Memorial-Penn Quarter Metro station, is bounded by 7th Street to the west, Indiana Avenue to the north, and Pennsylvania Avenue to the south.

Over 100 Years Later, DC’s World War I Memorial Is Now Complete

November 24, 2024November 24, 2024Posted in World War ITagged A Soldier's Journey, First World War, history, John Pershing, military, military history, Pershing Park, Sabine Howard, tourism, travel, Washington DC, Washington DC travel, Willard Hotel, World War I, Young Soldiers Do Not SpeakLeave a comment

Each day, shortly before 5:00 pm, an individual in a First World War U.S. Army “Doughboy” uniform exits the stately Willard Hotel and crosses Pennsylvania Avenue, bound for the Washington DC area’s newest memorial, the National World War I Memorial.

The Doughboy carries a bugle, and positions themselves under the memorial’s flagpole. Precisely at 5:00 o’clock, the bugler plays the mournful notes of Taps. The bugle notes echo through the plaza inviting all who hear to pause and remember the 4.7 million American men and women who fought in World War I and especially the estimated 126,000 Americans who gave their lives in the “war to end all wars”.

Bugler in World War I uniform - World War I Memorial - Washington DC

A bugler in his World War I uniform

In a bit of irony, for over a century there has not been a national memorial in the capital city to World War I. There are other important World War I monuments in and around Washington, but not a single, focused and comprehensive national memorial to the war that shaped so much of the 20th century and America’s role within it. Yet that changed in 2021 when a partially constructed memorial was dedicated and opened to the public. Three years later, the final and dramatic piece of the memorial was installed capping a years long effort and bringing Washington, DC’s National World War I Memorial to fruition.

Pershing Park

The National WWI Memorial is located in what was formerly known as Pershing Park, a parcel of land originally laid out as part of the redevelopment of Pennsylvania Avenue in the 1970s. Located between 14th and 15th Streets and Pennsylvania Avenue, the park was dedicated to General of the Armies John J. Pershing and the American Expeditionary Force (AEF) and formally opened in 1981.

The park featured an eight-foot-tall statue of Pershing standing straight and surveilling the horizon with his binoculars in hand. A wall perpendicular to the statue displayed maps and details of the AEF’s operations in Europe.

The statue of General of the Armies John J. Pershing at the National World I Memorial

General John J. Pershing statue - National World War I Memorial - Washington DC

Also included were a fountain that could be converted to a skating rink during the winter months, a glass concession stand and sitting areas. Abundant landscaping was added to provide a natural setting within a busy urban corridor. Earthen berms covered with grass surrounded the park on three sides, shielding the grounds from traffic noise.

Unfortunately, maintenance funds for the park’s unique features were scarce. Some aspects of the park fell into disrepair, trash accumulated and the landscaping neglected.

However, when the World War I Centennial Commission went in search of a venue for a national memorial to World War I in the nation’s capital, it ultimately decided on a redesigned Pershing Park as the best location.

Visitors walk through an open plaza at the National World War I Memorial.

With the clock ticking on the 100th Anniversary of the armistice, the commission expedited the truly lengthy process for approving new landmarks in Washington. The approach was not without controversy. Community and architectural groups grew concerned the new designs abandoned the original intent of an open green space in the middle of the city.

Ultimately, in 2016, a design submitted by architect Joseph Weishaar was selected. His approach was to use the existing footprint of the 1.76 acre park situated in a busy downtown area just southeast of the White House. Weishaar retained Pershing’s statue, the AEF Wall and the earthen berms but planned new features that expanded the interpretation of World War I.

One new addition is known as the belvedere, a raised, enclosed circular area located near the northeastern entrance of the park. The belvedere serves as the memorial’s orientation center. Interpretive signage installed along the interior of the wall familiarizes the visitor to “the Great War” and the roles played by American forces. The belvedere’s elevation provides clear lines of sight to the memorial’s features.

Willard Hotel in the background of the belvedere at First World War Memorial.

The circular wall of the belvedere is inscribed with the campaign names of the First World War. In the background is the Willard Hotel.

A Soldier’s Journey

Across the plaza from the belvedere, over a shallow reflection pool is the most prominent aspect of the the new memorial, a large relief sculpture entitled A Soldier’s Journey by Sabine Howard. The sculpture’s installation in September of 2024 completes the National World War I Memorial.

The sculpture stretches 58-feet long and includes 38 separate statues. Designed to be viewed from left to right, the sculpture tells the story of an American soldier’s experience across a series of tableaus.

Howard and his team followed a meticulous process beginning with over 12,000 drawings and photographs of models in various poses, which he used to create foam models. These foam models were then covered in clay so accurately that every uniform crease, garment wrinkle, weapon detail, and facial expression were painstakingly rendered. The clay-covered models were then used to create the molds in which the bronze statues were cast.

Sabine Howard - sculpture - A Soldier's Journey — **Sabine Howard’s sculpture “A Soldier’s Journey”**

Howard used combat veterans as his models, believing their faces would more accurately portray the effects of war. All the uniforms and equipment used by the models were century-old artifacts, not reproductions. Through this extensive detail, Howard invites the viewer into the story.

The effort took about eight years to complete.

The story begins with the soldier receiving his helmet from his young daughter. He then joins fellow soldiers as they march off. The next scene shows them charging at the enemy through no-mans land. The costs of war, both physical and psychological, are shown next as nurses comfort the afflicted while our soldier looks blankly at the viewer with a harrowing gaze.

In a dramatic scene from the sculpture entitled the Ordeal, American soldiers charge the enemy.

A dramatic scene from the sculpture A Soldier's Journey at WWI Memorial in Washington DC

The soldier then returns home as part of a victory parade. In the last scene, the soldier hands the helmet back to his daughter. Rather than depicting a joyous scene, this one is foreboding. The soldier has a look of deep resolve on his face. The daughter stares into the helmet, wearing a troubled expression. She represents the Greatest Generation, who would soon take up the mantle once again and fight another war.

Howard’s work is powerful and thought provoking, but the story told through the sculpture is a familiar one. With some changes to the uniforms and equipment, the story could be about any war.

This was Howard’s desired effect. He wanted a sculpture that asks the questions any war memorial should ask: Was it worth it? What did we gain? What did we lose? What did we learn?

Other Features

On the reverse of the sculpture wall, water gently cascades over an inscription taken from a haunting poem entitled The Young Soldiers Do Not Speak by Archibald MacLeash. MacLeash’s poem is written from the perspective of deceased soldiers who tell the living that it is up to the them to give meaning to the lives the soldiers lost. MacLeash was a veteran of the First World War who became a noted writer, poet and editor. President Roosevelt appointed MacLeash as the Librarian of Congress in 1939. He wrote a poem in 1940 in honor of the Library of Congress staff who died in World War I.

“We were young, they say, we have died, remember us”

– From The Young Soldiers Do Not Speak by Archibald MacLeash

A unique aspect of the memorial are the circular benches arrayed around the southern and western edges of the memorial plaza. Unlike similar war memorials in Washington, the inclusion of these sitting areas provides an appointed space available for rest and reflection, a gathering spot for friends or even an area for discussion about World War I. Trees and ornamental grasses around the memorial plaza provide a peaceful sense to aid in reflection.

Additionally, the live playing of Taps daily adds a human element to the stone and bronze of the memorial. The daily bugler initiative is coordinated by the Doughboy Foundation. Through the foundation’s website, members of the public can sponsor each day’s rendition in remembrance of an individual. The name of the day’s honoree and the scheduled bugler can be learned by scanning a QR code on a sign near the memorial’s flagpole.

Bugler - Doughboy Foundation - bugler playing Taps

Taps is sounded daily at the National World War I Memorial.

The evolution of Pershing Park into Washington DC’s National World War I Memorial has brought new life and purpose into this downtown space. The area is now more inviting and interesting, drawing more people in to learn about the American role in World War I and to remember those who fought and died.

At the dedication ceremony for the sculpture, Architect Joseph Weishaar remarked: “We don’t build memorials for the dead. They are for the living. We build them to protect and preserve our memories and our stories.”

While it seems so long ago, World War I continues to impact issues of the 21st century, such as the geopolitical situations of Eastern Europe and the Middle East, the immigration system we know today, defense spending, women’s rights, and the role of America on the world stage to name only a few.

However, as World War I moves deeper into history, maintaining the stories and learning its lessons becomes imperative. For if we lose them, we lose a big piece of who we are.

Route Recon

The World War I Memorial is accessible 24 hours a day, seven days a week. The memorial is located in downtown Washington, DC between the intersections of 14th and 15th Streets Northwest and Pennsylvania Avenue.

The closest Metro Station is Federal Triangle, located about three blocks away on the Blue, Orange and Silver Lines. Metro Center Station on the Red Line is located about flour blocks away to the north.

It’s Not Too Late to Commemorate D-Day!

June 27, 2024Posted in World War IITagged Airborne, D-Day, Fort Belvoir, Freedom From Above, Higgins Boat, Histopad, Histovery, La Fière, National Museum of the US Army, NMUSA, Normandy, Normandy Invastion, Paratroopers, Private John M. Steele, Sainte-Mère-Église, Washington DC, Washington DC Tourism, Washington DC travelLeave a comment

Are you heading to Washington, DC this summer rather than the beaches at Normandy, but still want to commemorate the D-Day anniversary? Then save time for a visit to the National Museum of the US Army at Ft. Belvoir, VA for a very unique and compelling temporary exhibit entitled Freedom From Above.

This highly interactive experience uses advanced technology combining powerful, realistic imagery with key background information, allowing the viewer to develop a broader perspective than might be possible using a map or book, or viewing a movie or single artifact.

As the title suggests, the exhibit focuses on the experience of US airborne forces on June 6, 1944.

Detail of Utah Beach Area from US Army Center for Military History D-Day Commemorative Map

Early on D-Day morning, paratroopers from the 82nd and 101st Airborne Divisions deployed to areas to the rear of Utah Beach. Their mission was to secure road junctions, bridges and causeways behind Utah to facilitate the ground forces breakout from the beach, as well as to hinder German reinforcements from reaching the area. Poor weather conditions, anti-aircraft fire and confusion often lead to the paratroopers jumping far from their designated drop zones. Some paratroopers drowned landing in flooded fields or were shot after being caught on trees or buildings.

Yet they rallied.

Over the next few days, the airborne troops reestablished some unit cohesion, engaged the German defenders and were able to achieve some important mission objectives.

Freedom From Above exhibit space

Through the Freedom From Above exhibit, visitors encounter 16 large screens depicting images and scenery related to the paratroopers’ final preparations, transport, deployment and initial operations in Normandy. Visitors experience each scene with a small tablet computer called a Histopad.

By using the Histopad to scan an image on a small platform adjacent to each large screen, visitors access the details, imagery and stories contained within the scene. Links embedded in the scene provide the viewer with additional details regarding people, objects or images portrayed on the Histopad’s screen.

Using the Histopad, a visitor unlocks the historical details and stories contained in the scene in front of them.

By turning completely around with the Histopad, the viewer gets a 360 degree perspective on the scene. Several of the scenes have a time travel scale, allowing the viewer to compare what an area looked like in 1944 to the same area today. Other scenes are more informational, depicting aircraft cockpits, the large (and heavy) amount of equipment a paratrooper carried and the routes the planes flew from bases in the United Kingdom into Normandy.

The exhibit designers have embedded a digital relic hunt within the scenes. Find the ten relics, spread over the sixteen scenes and, after providing an email address, you can receive a special relic collectors certificate. It’s important to remember the Histopad allows you multiple vantage points within a scene. If you are relic hunting, be sure to look all around.

Successful digital relic collectors can earn a certificate.

The historic scenes begin in the briefing room housed in a Quonset hut on an airbase in England. Here paratroopers of the 101st Airborne Division received their pre-deployment briefing. Around the room are short benches arranged in neat rows, and the walls are covered in flags, informational posters, signs and official notices. Visitors can open a field desk and explore its contents. (Hint: You might find a relic there.)

Additional scenes include well known events as well as planned operations such as Pathfinders marking a drop zone, glider aircraft deploying troops and heavy equipment, and a field hospital.

One scene is dedicated to the landing of Private John M. Steele of the 82nd Airborne Division at the village of Sainte-Mère-Église. Steele’s experience was prominently included in the 1962 film The Longest Day. Just after midnight Steele and his “stick” (a squad of Airborne soldiers jumping from an airplane) began landing in and around the center of the town. Steele’s parachute was caught on the Church’s steeple and he was suspended for two hours. He was eventually captured by German soldiers, but managed to escape four days later.

Steele survived the war and became a local celebrity in the town. A replica of him and his parachute hang on the church today.

The stanchion with the photograph and story of Private John M. Steele, whose parachute was caught on the steeple of the church at Sainte-Mère-Église.

The Histopad provides a simulated view of how the town might have looked to Steele as he descended. Unfortunately, German soldiers were already on the town square that morning and many of Steele’s fellow stick members were quickly caught or killed as they landed.

Although not as well known as landings and liberation of Sainte-Mère-Église, the battle at the La Fière bridge was an important, but costly victory for the 82nd Airborne in the days following the landings. The bridge was one of the principle objectives for the 82nd Airborne troops.

By holding the bridge as well as eastern and western banks of the river it spanned, the paratroopers would allow ground forces on Utah Beach to quickly move inland while forestalling a wider German counterattack on American landing forces. Elements of 82nd engaged in an intense battle with German defenders over four days to capture and hold the bridge. The Histopad provides detailed information about the troop deployments around the bridge and allows the viewer to see up close some of the equipment used in the fight.

The Freedom From Above exhibit scene depicting the bridge at La Fière.

In addition to the interactive experiences, stationary displays tell the unique stories of ten paratroopers who fought bravely on D-Day. These soldier stanchions include an image of the soldiers along with an excerpt of their story. Small images on the stanchions are also scannable, leading to a visual depiction of the soldier’s experiences, along with additional biographical information and, in some cases, period news footage.

Soldier stanchions with the images and details of D-Day paratroopers.

While the augmented reality of the exhibit is engaging, the National Museum of the US Army added a very moving feature to the exhibit. Only four Medals of Honor were awarded for heroic actions on June 6th, each to a US Army soldier. All four medals are on display together and each soldier’s story is presented at the entrance to the exhibit. This lends a sobering reminder of the courage and sacrifices made by all the Allied soldiers on D-Day.

To complete the D-Day experience at the museum, visitors should certainly visit the Global War gallery on the first floor. The gallery’s World War II displays contain a number of artifacts from D-Day as well as equipment used by airborne forces during the war.

The largest artifact is an LCVP, (Landing Craft, Vehicle, Personnel), also known as a Higgins Boat. Andrew Higgins was a successful manufacturer of small maritime craft built to operate in marshes or swamps. He designed this type of landing craft with a very shallow draft, enabling it to operate in only two feet of water. The front ramp would drop down allowing up to 36 soldiers in combat gear to literally “hit the beach” then return to a ship for more men. The Higgins Boat was also widely used in both the Atlantic and Pacific Theaters. More than 23,000 Higgins Boats were produced, but fewer than a dozen are known to exist today.

The display scene at the museum shows soldiers being loaded onto the Higgins Boat before it heads to shore.

Given their sheer size and scope–over 150,000 troops, 5,000 ships and 11,000 aircraft were involved–the Allied landings on D-Day continue to captivate the mind even eight decades later. The National Museum of the US Army has prepared an impressive exhibit dedicated to the D-Day experience. While the Histopad and augmented reality are no substitute for a visit to France, visitors to Freedom From Above will take away a deeper sense of the paratroopers’ courage and sacrifice at Normandy.

NOTE: Freedom From Above at the National Museum of the United States Army is open until November 15, 2024.

Route Recon

The National Museum of the United States Army is located at 1775 Liberty Drive, Fort Belvoir, VA, 22060

The museum is located on a publicly accessible portion of Fort Belvoir. Parking is free.

The museum is free, but tickets are required. Access tickets here.

Download a map with written directions here.

Traveling by car:

From Washington (traveling south)

Follow Interstate 395 South toward Richmond, Va. Merge onto Interstate 95 South. Take exit 166A toward VA-286 South/Fairfax County Parkway. Continue for 2.5 miles and turn left onto Liberty Drive.

From Baltimore (traveling south)

Follow MD-295 South, Baltimore-Washington Parkway. Exit onto Interstate 495 South/Interstate 95 South toward Richmond Va./Andrews Air Force Base. Follow signs for Interstate 95 South toward Richmond, Va. Take exit 166A toward VA-286 South/Fairfax County Parkway. Continue for 2.5 miles and turn left onto Liberty Drive.

From Richmond (traveling north)

Follow Interstate 95 North toward Washington. Take exit 166A toward VA-286 South/Fairfax County Parkway. Continue for 2.5 miles and turn left onto Liberty Drive.

Traveling by Bus:

The Fairfax Connector bus service travels to the Museum via two different routes:
Route 171 : Weekends ONLY
Route 334 : Monday – Friday ONLY
Please check the Fairfax County Website for the most current bus schedules.

Traveling by Metro:

The Franconia-Springfield Metro Station, on Metro’s blue line, is the closest station to the Museum. From the metro station, take Fairfax County Connector Bus Route 334 on weekdays or Route 171 on weekends to the museum.

Mess Call

The Museum Café is open daily from 9:00 – 4:00 pm. The Café provides daily grill service for breakfast and lunch as well as a variety of grab and go items.

African American Military History on the National Mall

February 27, 2024Posted in UncategorizedTagged African American Musuem, African Americans, Bucks of America, Buffalo Soldiers, Colin Powell, Double V Campaign, Harlem Hellfighters, history, National Mall, National Museum of African American History and Culture, Smithsonian Institute, travel, Washington DC, Washington DC travelLeave a comment

From Bunker Hill in 1775 to Bagdad in 2005, African Americans have served in the American military throughout our history. Their experiences are told as part of the larger African American saga at the Smithsonian’s newest museum, the National Museum of African American History and Culture.

Decades in the making, this museum opened in 2016 and attendance has now grown to over 1.6 million annual visitors. With over 3,500 artifacts on display, the museum’s broad expanse of exhibits reflect critical aspects of African American life such as slavery, civil rights, sports, music and military service.

A “soup bowl” style helmet worn during World War I. Soldiers of the US 369th Infantry Regiment, the Harlem Hellfighters, are pictured behind the helmet.

Situated on the National Mall, the exterior features a distinctive bronze colored filigree, a tribute to the timeless work of African American metal artisans. It sets this structure apart from the neoclassical and modernist designs of the neighboring government buildings.

The bright, spacious lobby, known as Heritage Hall, features diverse artwork with copper metallic and gray walls, complimenting the museum’s unique exterior. From here, the visitor may choose their entryway into the African American experience presented in the museum. The escalator down leads to the History Galleries while upstairs are the Community and Culture Galleries, which reflect more contemporary times and themes.

Tracing African American military history will ultimately lead in both directions.

Begin the journey in the downstairs galleries, which present over 400 years of African American history, from the establishment of the African slave trade through the Civil Rights era. African American military service during America’s wars is presented chronologically as part of the larger narrative of African American life. The galleries and exhibits devoted to four major conflicts all convey the recurring theme of how time and again African Americans fought bravely in wars for freedoms they themselves did not possess.

A large gallery dedicated to the Revolutionary War explores how enslaved Blacks served on both sides, motivated by promises of freedom.

The flag of the Bucks of America, a Black paramilitary group founded in the Boston area. It is believed the group protected the property of Patriot merchants who had left Boston to fight in the Revolutionary War.

Historians estimate approximately 5,000 – 6,000 Blacks served in the Continental Army or in colonial militias. They were involved in every major Revolutionary War battle and most smaller engagements. Units such as the First Rhode Island Regiment, comprised mostly of Blacks, gained renown for their discipline and skills as soldiers. Additionally, experienced Black seamen were actively recruited by the Continental and Royal Navies and served in many different operational capacities.

The war’s conclusion in 1783 brought freedom for some Black soldiers and sailors, but many were returned to slavery, either in America or other portions of the British Empire.

The Civil War gallery focuses largely on the many contributions of the US Colored Troops to the Union war effort. While newly freed slaves could receive paid work from the Army as early as 1861, they could not serve as Army soldiers until January 1863.

A kepi cap worn by a soldier from the 4th Regiment Heavy Artillery, US Colored Troops

Ultimately, about 179,000 African Americans enlisted in the Army from both the North and South. They were organized into segregated infantry, cavalry and artillery regiments with white officers and designated as US Colored Troops. Initially, they were paid less than white soldiers and given menial jobs to perform. In time though they earned full pay and distinguished themselves in many battles. Sixteen African American soldiers would earn the Medal of Honor.

Unlike the Army, the Navy was integrated before the Civil War. About 20,000 African Americans served aboard U.S Navy ships during the Civil War alongside White sailors.

The exhibits devoted to World War I and II are notably smaller than the Revolutionary and Civil War galleries. They broadly describe the segregated service of African Americans during these wars and the hostile environment to which they often returned.

One of the highlights in the History Galleries is a beautifully restored Stearman Keydet training aircraft used by the Tuskegee Airmen. The two seat bi-plane was the primary pilot training aircraft for the US Armed Forces in the 1930’s and 1940’s. The accompanying display also includes an excellent five minute introductory video on the origins and accomplishments of the Tuskegee Airmen, which was established in 1941 to demonstrate that African Americans could perform the jobs required in the Army Air Forces. The Tuskegee Airmen included pilots, as well as navigators, flight engineers, bombardiers, mechanics and other essential support positions.

A PT-13D Stearman Kaydet training aircraft used to train Tuskegee Airmen

One of the most notable units comprised of Tuskegee Airmen was the 332nd Fighter Group. From their base in Italy, the 332nd escorted heavy bombers on raids into central Europe from May 1944 through April 1945. They flew more than 15,000 sorties, losing but 25 escorted bombers to enemy fire.

In the museum’s Community Gallery on the third floor is an exhibit entitled Double Victory: the African American Military Experience. The gallery takes its name from the Pittsburg Courier’s Double Victory campaign during World War II, which promoted America’s victory over the Axis Powers and an African American victory over discrimination at home.

This exhibit expands on the themes first introduced in the below-ground History Galleries. Here the emphasis goes beyond historical facts of African American military service to how that service changed through the years and its impact on the larger African American community.

A handkerchief with the emblem of the Pittsburgh Courier’s Double Victory campaign.

Also included are more artifacts, such as documents, weapons and equipment. These highlight what military service for African Americans entailed at the time, such as a seaman’s certificate issued in 1826 to a Black sailor named Robert Barnaby. Barnaby carried the certificate with him at all times to prove he was a sailor in the US Navy and avoid being seized as a runaway slave.

This exhibits introduces the accomplishments of some notable African American units such as the 54th Massachusetts, the Buffalo Soldiers, the Harlem Hellfighters, and the Red Ball Express, among others.

President Harry Truman officially ended segregation in the US Armed Forces in 1948, upon signing Executive Order 9981. Change came, but slowly. Racial tension continued in the following decades in parallel with the civil rights movement occurring across American society. However, the integration of the services opened new opportunities for African American service members.

A horse saddle used by B Troop , 9th US Cavalry Regiment (A Buffalo Soldiers Regiment)

The final part of the Double Victory exhibit portrays one of the most important of those opportunities, the long rise of African Americans to senior ranks within the military. Two hundred years after the Battle of Lexington and Concord, Daniel “Chappie” James, a fighter pilot and Tuskegee Airman became the first African American four star general in history.

The exhibit includes Colin Powell’s dress uniform from his tenure as Chairman of the Joint Chiefs of Staff. It denotes the pinnacle of that long rise and attests to what is now possible in the military.

Although they might not have always been treated fairly, military service has long been an important part of African American life. Today, African Americans comprise 17% of the ranks of soldiers, sailors, airmen and Marines and continue a tradition begun over 200 years ago. Through that time, the unique relationship between African Americans and the American military was a rather complex picture. Curators have designed and assembled some revealing exhibits exploring the nuances of those complexities. It is an important collection and well worth seeing for anyone desiring a more complete picture of American military history.

* * *

Route Recon

The Museum is located on the National Mall at Constitution Avenue, NW, between 14th and 15th Streets, Washington, D.C. The street address is 1400 Constitution Avenue, NW, Washington, DC, 20560.

Click here for a map of all the Smithsonian Institute Museums around the National Mall.

The museum is open Tuesdays – Sundays from 10:00 AM until 5:30 PM. On Monday, the museum is open from 12 Noon until 5:30 PM.

Free timed-entry passes are required for entry.

Using public transportation is advised for those visiting the museum.

Metrorail – The closest Metro station is Federal Triangle, along the blue, orange, and silver lines.

Metrobus – Bus stops are located on Constitution Avenue. Visit the Washington Metropolitan Area Transit Authority for more information.

Circulator Bus – The National Mall Circulator Loop bus provides easy access around the National Mall and convenient connections to other Circulator buses for visits to uptown sites.

Mess Call

If your schedule allows, plan for lunch or a snack at the Sweet Home Café, the museum’s restaurant. It features a variety of food items reflective of African American culinary traditions as well as many modern day favorites. The Sweet Home Café is open daily, from 11:00 AM to 3:00 PM with the exception of Mondays (12:00 Noon – 3:00 PM).

What’s Peace Got To Do With It?

December 31, 2023December 31, 2023Posted in Civil WarTagged Admiral David Porter, Capitol Grounds, Carrara Marble, Civil War, David Dixon Porter, David Porter, Franklin Simmons, history, military history, National Mall, Navy Monument, Peace Monument, tourism, travel, united-states, US Capitol, Washington DC, Washington DC travel1 Comment

In a city abundant with statues, monuments and memorials, a few stand out for their uniqueness. One of these sits to the northwest of the US Capitol in the middle of a traffic circle formed where Pennsylvania Avenue terminates at First Street, NW. It is one of three pieces of statuary, along with memorials to Ulysses S. Grant and James Garfield, that form a visual connection between the US Capitol Grounds and the National Mall.

Dedicated to the sailors and Marines who died during the Civil War, the statue is known as the Navy Monument or Peace Monument. Unlike its neighboring statues which feature American statesmen cast in bronze, the Peace Monument mixes a variety of classical figures arrayed around an upright bloc, all captured in Italian marble.

**The Peace Monument from the National Mall**

At the top of the 44 foot high monument are two robed figures facing the National Mall to the west. One is Grief, who buries her head in one hand, while resting her other on the shoulder of History, who stands bearing a pen and scroll inscribed with the words: They died that their country might live.

Midway down the monument, Victory holds her laurel high in her right hand, while a very young Mars (the god of war) and Neptune (the god of the sea) sit at her feet.

On the reverse side of the statue, the figure of Peace looks towards the US Capitol. At her feet are a collection of items symbolic of the benefits of peace. There is a cornucopia and a sickle representing agricultural bounty while a gear and a book represent industry and the pursuit of knowledge.

Four large marble spheres on their own bracket-shaped pedestals are found on the corners of the monument along with classical adornments, such as wreaths, scrolling and scallop shells. Below the monument, jets of water shoot into a giant basin. On the west side an inscription reads: In memory of the Officers, Seamen and Marines of the United States Navy who fell in defence [sic] of the Union and liberty of their country, 1861–1865.

While it looks as if it might have been designed by a committee, the statue was the idea of one man: US Navy Admiral David Porter.

Admiral Porter was the scion of a distinguished naval family. His father, Commodore David Porter, was a hero of the War of 1812 and his adopted brother was David Glasgow Farragut (of “Damn the Torpedos” fame). Admiral Porter first served as a midshipman at age ten under his father. He would serve in the Navy for over sixty years.

Admiral David Dixon Porter

-Photograph by Mathew Brady, Library of Congress Collection

Porter sketched the original figures of Grief and History as early as 1865, then raised money from private sources for its construction. Porter was likely inspired by his father, who undertook a similar project. Commodore Porter commissioned a statue dedicated to the lives of six naval heroes who died fighting the Barbary Pirates in the early 19th century. At one time this statue was displayed near the US Capitol; it was ultimately moved to the US Naval Academy at Annapolis in 1860.

For his monument, Admiral Porter worked with Franklin Simmons, an accomplished sculptor known for his work in sculpting political and historical figures. Simmons carved the statues at his studio in Rome, working with another team of Italian sculptors to carve the monument’s shaft. He consulted frequently with Admiral Porter on including additional figures and embellishments.

After its unveiling, an art critic remarked, “Porter knows more about the high seas than high art.”

While that may well have been true, Porter’s conglomeration of figures and mixed symbology seems quite appropriate for a monument to the U.S. Navy during the Civil War.

Close-up of the Statue of Mars. Note the erosion on the fingers of right hand where he grips his sword, and on nose.

In April of 1861, the Navy had but 42 commissioned ships. It needed to expand quickly and it required many new and different types of vessels for the missions it now faced. Specialized ships were necessary for enforcing President Lincoln’s blockade of Southern ports, defeating the Confederate Navy in open waters, supporting US Army ground operations and patrolling interior rivers. This was also a transitional period as wooden sailing ships gave way to ironclads powered by steam.

The Navy set about a massive program of refitting current naval vessels, building new ones and acquiring civilian ships, which were converted for military use. By war’s end, the Navy had over over 600 vessels, some very distinct in design and purpose.

During the Civil War, the US Navy also rewrote doctrines focusing on flotilla operations rather than single ship actions, adopted new combat tactics, and revised its command structure.

Admiral Porter was on the forefront of some of these developments. He commanded a flotilla of ships in the Union capture of New Orleans. He transported Ulysses S. Grant’s army down the Mississippi River prior to the assault on Vicksburg. He also commanded naval forces in the attack on Fort Fisher, North Carolina. After a two-day long bombardment of the fort, Porter contributed a force of sailors and Marines to join US Army soldiers on a multi-pronged ground attack.

The Bombardment and Capture of Fort Fisher, N.C. Jany. 15th, 1865. [Published by Currier & Ives, between 1865 and 1872] Library of Congress Collection

While historians devote more attention to land campaigns and the Army’s epic battles, the Navy made significant contributions to the Union victory in the Civil War. During those years, 4,523 sailors lost their lives. The Marine Corps played their role as well, participating in some major land battles, enforcing blockades and conducting patrols along the rivers. During the Civil War, 148 Marines were killed in combat.

After his Civil War service, Porter served as the Superintendent of the US Naval Academy where he implemented a number of reforms to better prepare midshipmen to become naval officers. He originally intended the monument to be placed at Annapolis as was his father’s. However, the Secretary of the Navy at the time disagreed.

Congress though did approve of the statue being placed near the Capitol. Funds were appropriated for the construction of the monument’s platform and a basin for the fountain, which were made from Maine blue granite.

The monument was shipped in pieces to Washington in 1876. The next year, the monument was assembled and installed at its current site. The last statue of Peace was added in 1878. A formal dedication ceremony was delayed until the statue was completed. Dolphins were also to be incorporated as were bronze lamps, but these were never added and no formal dedication was ever held.

The Statue of Peace facing the US Capitol.

The statue was built of Italian Carrara marble, which unfortunately has not stood up to the weather or the pollution in Washington, DC. Erosion of the faces on different figures is clearly evident and various features have broken off. For example, the young Neptune is missing his trident.

Additionally, protestors have repeatedly climbed the Peace Monument during demonstrations on the Mall, further damaging the statues. A major restoration effort was made in 1991, where the marble was carefully cleaned, strengthened and missing pieces replaced. Similar work was conducted in 1999 and 2010.

Close up of the Statues of Grief and History. Note the erosion on History’s face and the missing pen from History’s right hand.

It is easy to be dismissive of the Peace Monument as something antiquated–or not related to peace at all–since it memorializes war dead. Indeed, the monument may not work as “high art”. But the monument’s story is compelling and offers some rich analogies to peace worth considering.

Like this monument’s creation, peace may take a long time. Peace might look different from what you expected. Peace may never be complete. Peace is fragile and needs constant tending. Peace may not be heralded with a formal ceremony, yet it exists nonetheless. Peace may flabbergast some, but it can endure.

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Route Recon

The Navy Monument or Peace Monument is located within a traffic circle at the intersection of Pennsylvania Avenue and First Street, NW, to the northwest of the US Capitol building. The best way to get to the monument (and the Capitol) is by taking Metro.

Three Metro stops are within walking distance of the memorial and the Capitol:

Union Station – Located at First Street, NW, and Massachusetts Avenue.
Capitol South – Located at First Street between C and D Streets, SE.
Federal Center, SW – Located at the southwest corner of Third and D Streets, SW.

Additional information on riding Metro, is available at the Washington Metropolitan Area Transit Authority.

The DC Circulator, a public bus system with routes through Washington’s downtown area includes stops near the Memorial. Find more information about Circulator busses at www.dccirculator.com.

There is very little public parking available near the Capitol. The nearest public parking facility is at Union Station, to the north of the Capitol. Very limited metered street parking is found along the Mall to the west of the Capitol.